5 less harmful drugs that will replace copper sulfate



We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Copper sulfate is used as a fungicide, as a top dressing for peaty and sandy soils, in which there is little copper, as well as for soil disinfection. Despite the effectiveness and cheapness, there is a huge disadvantage of vitriol - toxicity. Manufacturers of garden chemicals offer modern and safe products that cope with its tasks 100%.

Glyocladin

The drug is made on the basis of a natural component, namely a soil fungus, which prevents the development of root and root rot. Used for soil disinfection.Glyocaldin is environmentally friendly, safe for humans and animals. Available in pill form, which makes it easier to work with. Suitable for disinfecting soil for cucumbers and tomatoes, as well as for seedlings of flower and indoor plants. The calculation of the dosage is presented in the instructions and is extremely simple:

  • for cucumbers and tomatoes, 1 tablet is used per well. It is applied manually to a depth of at least 1 centimeter when sowing seeds or planting seedlings in the ground;
  • for seedlings of flower plants, 1 tablet is applied per 300 ml of soil to a depth of at least 1 centimeter when sowing seeds, transplanting, picking or planting plants.

Fitosporin

Natural preparation used for the prevention of fungal and bacterial diseases in various cultures. Its base is hay stick, which feeds on harmful fungi and bacteria. The bacterium is resistant to temperature extremes and drought.

The main advantage over vitriol is the lack of a waiting period, that is, the fruits from the processed plant can be eaten immediately.

Fitosporin is available in powder, paste and ready-to-use liquid form. Processing can be carried out during the entire period of growth and maturation of crops. It is used for spraying green mass, soaking seeds and tubers, as well as for processing the soil after digging.Powdered Fitosporin is used for spraying:

  • roots, tubers and bulbs of vegetable crops before planting at the rate of 10 g of the product per 0.5 l of water;
  • flowers for the prevention of diseases - 1.5 g per 2 liters of water, for treatment - 1.5 g per 1 liter;
  • leaves of seedlings of cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants - 5 g per 10 liters of water;
  • potato tops, cucumber stalks - 10 g per 5 liters of water.

A concentrate is prepared from Fitosporin in the form of a paste. To do this, 100 g of paste is diluted in 200 ml of water, and then a working solution is made by mixing the concentrate with water. Used as follows:

  • onions and tubers are treated with a mixture of 3 tablespoons of the concentrated substance and 1 glass of water;
  • when soaking the seeds before planting, mix 2 drops of the concentrate and half a glass of water;
  • for rooting, a solution is prepared from 4 drops of the drug per 1 glass of water;
  • spraying of vegetable, berry and fruit trees, as well as flowers, is carried out by mixing 3 teaspoons of the concentrate with 10 liters or 4 drops of the concentrate with 200 ml of water.

Fitosporin solution is applied at the rate of 10 drops per 200 ml of water.

Alirin-B

It is used for root and foliar applications. It is an analogue of Fitosporin, since the main active ingredient is the same hay stick.

The use of Alirin-B allows you to increase the concentration of protein and ascorbic acid in fruits. The product is safe for the environment.

The standard dilution dose is 2 tablets per 10 liters of water. First, the tablets are diluted in a glass of water, mixed thoroughly and allowed to brew for 10 minutes, then mix again and add the remaining water. In the process of carrying out foliar treatment, it is necessary to constantly shake the sprayer cylinder.For root treatment of potatoes, it is recommended to use 4-6 tablets for every 10 kg of tubers. The solution is prepared at the rate of 200-300 ml for each tuber. To achieve the best effect, it is recommended to use in conjunction with Gamair.

Gamair

The drug is made on the basis of soil bacteria. Available in two forms: powder - for large areas and tablets - for processing single plantings.

Restores soil microflora, is environmentally friendly, does not accumulate in plants, destroys harmful bacteria and fungi that cause rot.

For spraying, it is necessary to prepare a concentrate by dissolving a tablet or powder in 200 ml of water. The exact dosage is indicated on the sachet and depends on the specific culture. Then, pour the solution into the sprayer and add water according to the manufacturer's recommendations.Treat affected crops. With prophylaxis, the dosage of the drug is halved. The use of Gamair is possible at any time from April to August.

Horus

The active ingredient is cyprodinil. The drug is resistant to low temperatures, so it can be used at + 3 ° C in autumn and spring.

  • apple and pear - 2 g per 10 liters of water at the beginning and at the end of flowering;
  • fruit stone fruits - 3.5 g per 10 liters of water during the growing season when the first signs of the disease appear and 2 weeks before harvesting.

Preparations based on natural ingredients must be used in the first hours after preparation of the working solution. Otherwise, the beneficial properties will be lost.

[Votes: 1 Average: 4]


April is the hottest time for the gardener in the fight against garden pests and pathogens. And it will not be very easy, because this year the winter has stood out for all harmful insects and pathogenic microflora, one might say, a resort one.

There have been no such favorable conditions for them in most of Russia for a long time. Usually in winter, up to 70% of all populations of pests and pathogenic fungi and microbes die.

And this year, if you haven't properly treated your garden with means of protection since the fall, get ready for a serious fight against massive invasions of pests on your cultural plantings.

About wintering pests and how from the fall you need to treat the entire site from them, read our published article:

There is little hope for a sharp cold snap at the end of March. After all, during abnormal warming, all harmful insects have already crawled out of the ground, cracks in the bark, uncleared plant debris. They hatched from the eggs and "discooked".

At negative temperatures, some of them will surely die. But only a part ...

You have sent us many questions regarding garden pest control. We will try to answer them in as much detail as possible.

When and how to start treating the garden from pests and diseases? What other activities besides spraying should be carried out?

Larisa Valeeva, St. Petersburg

You, like any gardener, in early April need to outline a whole range of activities. Walk around your plot with a notebook and pen and take a close look at all of your plants.

Pay particular attention to the bark of trees, swelling buds, the ground under trees and bushes. Look through trash heaps, wooden fences, and barn walls. And everywhere you will find the presence of wintering pests.

If you find signs of scab on fruit trees, immediately treat them with 5% urea solution or 3% copper sulfate solution. By the way, the second old proven remedy is preferable.

Bordeaux mixture is no less effective. It is now sold in any garden store. It is better to buy ready-made, because only very experienced gardeners can properly withstand the ratio of the amount of copper sulfate and slaked lime in it.

And the period of its impact is only 5 days. Then the lime begins to stick together into lumps, and you will need to prepare a new portion.

If aphids are found on some plants, immediately spray them with Fufanon at the concentration indicated on the package.

In general, taking into account the abnormal winter, we recommend that you carry out two mandatory treatments of the entire garden in April with an interval of a week.

The first - 6 - 8 April - 1% Bordeaux mixture. And boldly spray all fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as perennial flowers and berries.

Do not forget to process not only the plants as a whole, but also the ground around them. This treatment will relieve you of 80% of fungal pathogens.

The second processing - a week after the first - do it from pests. The best drug for this is Fufanon. It is created on the basis of the active substance malofos, but in a much lower concentration than for industrial use and is allowed for use by amateur gardeners in small areas.

Process in the same way as in the first case, all the plants as a whole and the ground under them.

Before spraying, remove all debris and dry leaves from the site, and carefully clean off lichens and mosses from the trunks.

For spraying, you can use specialized sprayers and the most primitive nozzles on a plastic bottle. The main thing is that the spraying is finely dispersed.

When working, it is very important to protect yourself from the contact of chemicals in the eyes, as well as on open areas of the body. Wear goggles, gloves, hats, boots, pants or overalls, and long sleeves.

Garden processing should be carried out only in dry, sunny weather.

In addition, a number of other measures can be taken.

Hang trapping belts on all fruit trees. Cut the plastic bottles in half and add fermented beer or old jam with water to the bottoms.

And also hang them on the branches of trees and tall shrubs (two is enough for one plant). You can't even imagine how many different pests you will collect in these containers.

Spread white, thick, non-woven coverings or old sheets under the fruit trees and brush the weevil and apple beetle off the trees every morning. Then carefully take the bedding to the fireplace, shake off the bugs and burn.

We all really love gooseberries. But for some reason the leaves of our bushes turn yellow, and then the branches dry out and break off. And on some bushes a strange cobweb appears (not the same as from spiders) What is the reason?

Oleg Sviridov, Orenburg region

Gooseberry branches can dry out and break due to the fact that they are affected by currant glass. In the form of a caterpillar, it can live for two years inside a branch of currants or gooseberries, sucking all the juices from it.

Therefore, in the spring, all dry branches must be cut out at the base and immediately burned.

A thin, transparent cobweb on the branches indicates that a spider mite has chosen the bushes of your gooseberry.

To combat it, treatment with a solution of soda ash (200 g per bucket of water), dissolved in hot water (+ 60 ... + 70 degrees), is very helpful. The whole bushes and the ground under them are watered with this solution. Carry out the treatment until the kidneys swell.

If the leaves of the gooseberry bushes look like burnt, then the kidney moth has worked here. A white bloom on the leaves indicates a powdery mildew infection.

But basically, pest control in the garden in spring comes down to two treatments: Bordeaux mixture and "Fufanon", which we talked about above. They will help you get rid of all spring troubles.

We have recently started growing cold hardy table grapes, We bought varieties from you: Radiant kishmish, Kodryanka, Pleven and Krasotka. He took root very well and started growing. Last year, two varieties gave their first harvest. We have never noticed pests on grape bushes, but we are afraid that they may appear this year. How and when should we treat our delicious favorites?

Andrey and Galina Popov, Chelyabinsk region

As soon as you remove the winter shelter, remove all the debris, then prune the dried vines, remove damaged or frozen shoots. Well spud each bush and pour with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

After 2 days, treat your entire vineyard and the land under it with 1% Bordeaux mixture, because fungal diseases are the worst for grapes. As soon as the buds begin to open, treat your bushes with BI-58 or Vermitic preparations.

And for all other fruit trees and shrubs, pest control in the garden in April will be reduced to two treatments, which we have already written about:

from pests - "Fufanon" solution (at the concentration indicated on the package)

from fungal diseases - 1% Bordeaux mixture.

In addition, we recommend that you read the articles already published by us:


If in the past season the vegetables in the beds were very sick, the site needs to be disinfected. It is not worth combining this operation with fertilization. It is better to carry out the procedure in advance. Small beds can be spilled with boiling water (1-2 buckets per 1 square meter). Immediately after that, cover the beds with black film and leave for 1-2 days. This will help to eliminate not only most of the infections, but also to cope with soil pests. Minus: you need a lot of boiling water, and you need to act quickly. To prevent rot and fungal infections, spill the area with a hot saturated solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water). Minus: as a result, both harmful and useful microflora of the soil will be destroyed. Therefore, a week after the procedure, spill the soil with a solution of Tri-hodermine or any EM preparation according to the instructions.

Nikolay KHROMOV, Cand. agricultural sciences

Apply complex and granular fertilizers to dry soil.

Check the expiration date: fertilizers can be stored for a maximum of three years from the date of manufacture.

In spring, organic fertilizers are absorbed by plants more slowly than mineral fertilizers, so I advise you to add one third less organic matter and one third more mineral fertilizers for digging.

Irina GURIEVA, teach, sotr. FNTS them. Michurina


Seed disinfection methods before planting

Methods for disinfecting vegetable seeds before planting are usually divided into two groups: dry disinfection and wet disinfection.

The simplest dry disinfection seed is held in the open sun for a week. During solar disinfection, the seeds are periodically agitated and stirred on a plate or saucer. The method is reliable for seeds of cucumber, pumpkin and other pumpkin crops of beets, rutabagas and turnips, especially if the seeds have been stored for a long time in a cold room. The sun stimulates seeds to germinate and kills microorganisms.

At home, seeds can be irradiated with an ultraviolet lamp.

For dry disinfection of seeds, you can use special preparations - fungicides. Fungicides are sprayed over the seeds, or dry seeds are poured into a bag with the drug. The procedure is not safe for health, therefore, respiratory protection must be used.

For wet disinfection seeds have long been used solutions of potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, boric acid or copper sulfate.

For wet disinfection of seeds, many gardeners still, like our grandfathers, use a solution of potassium permanganate, although some experts are rather skeptical about this method.

The potassium permanganate solution should be more black than pink

Potassium permanganate solution to disinfect seeds, the concentration must be correct. You should know that 6 grams of potassium permanganate is placed in one teaspoon without top. Knowing this, it is easy to prepare the required concentration by simply stirring a teaspoon of potassium permanganate without top in 600 ml of water, if a 1% solution is required.

Modes of seed treatment with potassium permanganate:

  • Seeds of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, celery, lettuce, radish, beans, peas, beans are processed in 1% (black-pink) solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of + 20-25 ° C for and then washed in water
  • Seeds of eggplant, pepper, cabbage, carrots, pumpkin crops, dill are disinfected in a strong 1.5% (black-purple) potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, followed by washing the seeds with water.

A weak solution of potassium permanganate does not disinfect the seeds, so if the bottom of the dishes shines through the solution, then it makes no sense to use it for disinfection.

Acetic acid (1% solution) is also suitable for neutralizing harmful microflora on the surface of seeds. It is enough to soak the seeds in a vinegar solution for 2 hours and then rinse thoroughly with water.

Hydrogen peroxide can replace potassium permanganate if necessary. For disinfection use 3% a solution of hydrogen peroxide heated to + 35-40 ° C. Seeds are poured into a warm solution for 10 minutes, while the solution should cover the seeds. The utensils should be any, except for metal utensils.

Hydrogen peroxide 3% can be used for wet disinfection of seeds before planting

Boric acid and copper sulfate used in the field, but no less effective than previous fluids. Tomato seeds are disinfected in a solution of boric acid (0.2 grams per 1 liter of water) or copper sulfate (0.1 grams per 1 liter of water). This treatment also fully protects tomatoes from disease. Stuck together tomato seeds must be separated from each other for effective disinfection.

Aloe juice protects seeds from bacterial infections. The leaves of indoor aloe plants are kept in the dark at + 2 ° C for a week, squeezed out the juice, and then diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. The seeds are kept in aloe solution for 1 day.


The greenhouse is treated with copper sulphate when all the autumn work in it is completed. The drug will carry out a complete disinfection of the soil, the frame of the greenhouse, where pests are possible.

For processing the greenhouse, a 1% solution prepared in warm water is used. Initially, preliminary work is performed. Then they proceed to processing with copper sulfate.

  1. Remaining vegetation and foreign objects are removed from the greenhouse.
  2. Inspect the structure for damage and seal it with a sealant.
  3. The floors are cleaned with soapy water.
  4. Metal objects are treated with 9% vinegar.
  5. Scratches are cleaned, then primed and painted.
  6. Wooden elements are impregnated with the prepared solution of copper sulfate using a paint brush.
  7. The inner coatings are washed with a sponge soaked in the same solution.
  8. In case of severe infection, irrigate the greenhouse with vitriol from a spray bottle.
  9. After drying, which takes 5 hours, the treatment is repeated in full.
  10. Then the soil is treated.
  11. Areas covered with mold are sanded and treated with copper sulfate.

At the end of the work, the soil is dug up. Many useful substances remain in it. And spores and pests that dream of wintering in a greenhouse die.


Herbicide

A general-purpose herbicide is an effective chemical remedy for moss on the lawn, it contains ferrous sulfate as an active substance. Therefore, when using it, carefully monitor the dosage so as not to burn the grass of the lawn, since the general herbicide acts only on the leaves and does not affect the roots.

In stores you can find - herbicide for mosses. This is a special product that contains dichlorophene.

Each herbicide manufacturer indicates its own instructions for use, but usually it is a simple spraying of the solution on the moss or even spreading along with fertilizers (if the herbicide is granular).

It is necessary to apply in sunny weather with moist soil, but dry grass. After application, do not mow and walk on the lawn. After 2 days, it is necessary to water the lawn if there was no rain during this time. After 2-3 weeks, collect the dead moss with a rake. After 4-6 weeks, sow those places where bald spots have formed.

The best time to apply a general herbicide is late April to early July. In autumn, it is recommended to apply a moss herbicide.

If the previous methods of removing moss have not worked and the fight against moss on the lawn has been delayed, the herbicide will solve your problem.


All stages of garden processing

With the arrival of heat, it is necessary to remove the summer cottage, remove the film or other shelters from plants or trees. Initially, tree trunks are cleaned from fungi, lichens, and after that the trunks are painted over with a lime solution.

To obtain it, 2 kg of lime is dissolved in a 10 liter bucket of water with the addition of clay and copper sulphate (350 g), which, of course, will strengthen the protection against insects.

After the solution is thoroughly mixed, they begin to process the trunks and bases of the branches. Lime and vitriol can destroy the larvae of pests deposited in the bark and cracks of the tree. You can use ready-made solutions for whitewashing trees with the addition of fungicides, which also help against attack by insects and rodents.

Treatment of trees and shrubs in the spring from pests and diseases can be carried out using diesel fuel, it is sold at every gas station. It is used for spraying apples, pears, plums, cherries and other fruit trees. During treatment with diesel fuel, a thin oily film is formed, under which all pests are suffocated for 2-3 hours.

Processing before bud break

At this stage, it is necessary to spray trees and bushes in order to exclude the most common diseases such as scab, coccomycosis, moniliosis, black cancer and many others. And also processing is necessary to destroy harmful insects and their larvae.

For these purposes, use "Avant", "Lannat", "DNOC", "Aktara". Before using them, you must carefully read the instructions so as not to harm the plantings.

Processing the garden in spring before and during flowering

Before the start of blooming flower buds, trees are sprayed from moth, scab, spotting. Such a remedy as karbofos is used as follows: 70 g of the drug is diluted in a 10 liter bucket of warm water.

At a time when the gardens begin to bloom, no measures are taken against pests. But with the end of flowering, ticks are activated, which are very dangerous for plantings. For processing, use colloidal sulfur 80 g per 10 liters of soapy warm water.

Spring processing of the garden during the appearance of ovaries

Spring processing of fruit trees and shrubs from pests should be carried out only if there are pests, if there are none, then it is better not to risk it, since the use of chemicals can harm delicate ovaries.

For spraying, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid or other combined preparations are used. Do not work on days with high humidity, as this can cause burns on young leaves.


Autumn whitewashing of trees in the garden

Whitewashing trees in the fall before the upcoming cold weather should be thorough, since it should provide the maximum protective effect of the bark. The layer of lime to be applied should be thin - no more than 4 mm. It is important to dilute the lime solution until it is homogeneous, without lumps, so that it lies more evenly on the bark. The thicker the layer of whitewash, the more likely it will fall off the tree trunk. Whitewashing can be prepared independently at home, or you can already buy a ready-made one containing special adhesives that prevent it from cracking and shedding. Specialty shops also sell special paint for whitewashing garden trees. It protects the bark from sunburn, winter cold and insect pests.

At home, gardeners use the most common whitewashing recipe. To do this, mix 2 kg of slaked lime, 1.5 kg of clay and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate. The mixture is diluted with water until a thick sour cream consistency is obtained. You need to apply whitewash in a thin layer so that streaks do not form. Before this, the bark of the tree must be carefully prepared, processed and disinfected. If there are untreated wounds on the tree, then the lime will only worsen the situation, the ulcers will crack even more.

Whitewashing trees three times a year makes them resistant to pests and fungal diseases. Trees tolerate both hot summers with burning sunbeams and cold frosty winters better. In this case, the yield grows, the fruits and leaves retain their decorative qualities and presentation. As a result, the life of plants is significantly extended.


Watch the video: Easiest Copper Plating Method Revealed


Comments:

  1. Langston

    This has amazed me.

  2. Mubar

    Wonderful, this is fun opinion

  3. Baird

    Every day I check if you have written anything new. Cool blog. I look forward to returning. Good luck and a new wave.



Write a message


Previous Article

Mcloughlin landscaping

Next Article

Longwood gardens certificate in ornamental horticulture